![]() This section contains a summary of information presented in a paper published about the IC. I think my photos above are better, but somebody went to a lot of trouble: ![]() Without further ado - here is what I've got so far: I've also taken some information on the IC and created a new "theory of operation" section to the manual, because this is no ordinary superhet - there is some real sophistication here! When you see a reduced version with a blue link box around it, simply click on it and the full sized image will come up in the browser. Some of this information is available on line other places, but I've done high resolution scans and worked extensively with the images to make them crisp and clear. So what I have done is taken the relevant portions of that manual and grafted them together into an approximation of the SRF-59 manual. There is a manual for a very similar model, the SRF-PSY03, on line. There are no free service manuals for the SRF-59 on line. If you somehow got the tuning assembly wrong, the radio won't tune - but you just have to rotate the tuning cap 180 degrees to fix it. Make sure the battery clips line up properly. When re-assembling, put the board in against the front panel, engaging the tuning shaft with the tuning knob.Then return far right position - which corresponds to the far left, lower frequencies when you look at the case from the front. Check the indicator action by rotating the knob.Position the tuning knob so the wide tooth fits in the wide gap on the indicator: Position the indicator plastic in its "L" shaped channel (it likes to spring straight, so it takes a little dexterity).The dial knob has a wide tooth, corresponding to a wide gap on the indicator plastic: Closer inspection, however, showed that the mechanical designers had anticipated this, and make things really easy for assemblers. At first, I thought re-assembling the dial indicator assembly was going to be difficult due to meshing the teeth of the gear and indicator at the right place. ![]() Your radio is now apart! In preparation for re-assembly, rotate the tuning capacitor fully counter clockwise.I don't think I need to remind you to be careful and not break the board or the ferrite bar! The spot of glue is under the ferrite bar. Gently pry the PC board off the back half of the cabinet.It is very easy! Here is a view of the radio interior, with the dial knob at the right: Don't worry, I will show you how to re-assemble later. It is inevitable because the board is glued against the back of the case with a strong adhesive. You absolutely WILL disassemble the dial indicator assembly. OK, at this point you have discovered a problem. Next, starting at the bottom, use a flat screwdrive to separate two halves of the clamshell case:.The battery cover, by the way, removes easily with a gentle tug. Remove two screws in indicated locations.Turn the unit over and remove the belt clip and battery:.Houston was not a good benchmark for FM, but from a Dallas location all of the rim shots such as KLAK are clearly audible, a very impressive feat for a walkman with nothing but headphone wire antenna. ![]() But I digress - from a Houston listening locations, stations from Austin, San Antonio, and Dallas are clearly audible on AM. ![]() A third of the SRF-A1 interior is dedicated to AM stereo, which is used by fewer and fewer stations. I seldom use them as "ultralights", however, because they are a bit on the clunky side. Performance is almost as good as the legendary SRF-A1 portable, of which I own two. But - is it really good as a DX model? If so - what is "under the hood" that makes it so good?įirst impressions with the radio confirmed - it is no slouch, unmodified and out of the box. At less than $20, it was worth the gamble - as a portable I can easily throw into a bag when I travel. The Sony SRF-59 is a highly touted "ultralight" DX portable. The Sony SRF-59 Tech Page The Sony SRF-59 Tech Page ![]()
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